Plant Propagation: Air Layering FAQ

Layering:

A method of rooting a new plant from a branch that is still attached to the parent plant. This method of propagation works with many, but not all woody plants.

Simple (or ground) layering:

Essentialy, burying a middle portion of a branch in the ground and waiting for roots to form. The process can be enhanced by "wounding" the branch. This can be done by partially breaking the branch, slicing a section out of the bark and underlying area, scraping the bark away to bare wood, or completely girdling the branch (no, that doesn't usually kill it). Chances of success can be further increased by use of a rooting hormone. I normally use iba (I don't remember the long name off hand) and th ere are others available at larger nurseries and garden centers. Rootone will work on some species but is not very potent. After the plant is wounded and hormone applied, bury that portion in the ground and put a pin over it, or set a rock or whaever on it to keep it in the ground. The protruding end can be staked up right; this will eventually be your new plant. Roots should form in 6 weeks to a year. After rooting, cut off well behind roots and pot up. (I do not do much of this kind of layering; I find air layering much easier).

Air layering:

Essentially the same procedure as above, but (as one might surmise!) done in the air.

Supplies needed:

Sharp knife, rooting hormone, moist unmilled sphagnum moss (_not_ peat moss), heavy duty aluminum foil.

Cover the end of the cut furtherest from the trunk (nearest the tip) (or the scraped area) with rooting hormone; I usually get some between thumb and finger and just rub it into the cut bark. Take about as much moist sphagnum as you can comfortably hold in one hand and squeeze out excess water; wrap the moss around they cut and cover with a piece of foil large enough to completely cover the moss and to extend up and down the branch a couple of inches in either direction. Crimp foil for a good seal. You want a fairly water-tight seal. If you want to go to the trouble, you can first cover the moss ball with medium weight plastic wrap and close with twist ties; this allows you to open the foil to check for rooting without disturbing the newly forming roots. For beginners this is a good idea; curiosity becomes unbearable (blush - I broke a root on a Japanese Maple layer about 2 weeks ago because I couldn't wait to see if it was "taking!"). You still need the foil though t o protect the layer from too much sun.

In 6 weeks to 6 months you should have a new plant; cut it off about 2 inches below the girdle, very carefully remove the foil/plastic and gently plant it in the appropriate size pot. Be very cafeful if you firm the dirt around the new plant; the new roo ts can be stripped right off. Place pot in a protected area until the new plant is well established. I usually hold my layers in pots for about a year to get the root system fully developed before putting them in the ground.

I have literally hundreds of camellias, azaleas, hollies, Japanese Maples, etc. that I have started like this. There are several advantages to layering: 1. "Instant plant" - You generally will have a relatively large, viable plant quickly. 2. Instant gr atification - most of my camellias and azaleas bloom the very first year after layering. 3. Very high success rate (about 90% for me). 4. New plant is an identical clone of parent; reliable reproduction assured.

Timing: For deciduous plants (Japanese Maple, etc.) I like to put the layer on just before dormancy is broken; the normal spring growth spurt seems to help root formation. Evergreens such as camellia and azalea, as early as possible after flowering.